Wednesday, October 31, 2012

SHOP REVIEW: DC4




Stocking “the world’s best Japanese denim specialities,” DC4 is the place to meet like-minded enthusiasts if you get the chills from the smell of natural indigo or the hand feel of an exclusive and slubby heavy weight Japanese denim. Established in 2004 at a time when no other shop in Berlin catered the market for premium Japanese denim, DC4 quickly built a strong reputation. The shop recently relocated to one of the oldest building on Torstraße a ten minute walk away form the touristy high street shopping area. We had a chat with owner Daniel Cizmek and his colleague Frank.

Daniel grew up in Federal Republic of Germany (‘the West”) and before becoming a shop owner he studied fashion design. He was raised to loved denim and jeans by his father and according to Daniel the demand has been strong ever since jeans were introduced to the Germans by the American GIs in the 50s.
Still, in recent years there has been an increased focus on heavy Japanese denim and in Daniel’s opinion this is mainly a result of competition between the Japanese brands to produce the the heaviest high quality denim possible. But weight is only one aspect of quality and what Daniel really loves about Japanese denim is the way it fades. Also, the manufacturers have realise that their highly valued and irreplaceable old shuttle looms are put under too much pressure producing that super heavy weight denim.

Walking by DC4 late at night you’ll often find Daniel and his crew hanging around in the shop discussing how to improve the details or the fit of a jean. One of the improvements they’ve come up with is the selvage reinforcement on the back of the right front belt loop on the first DC4 Iron Heart collaboration jean. This seemly decorative detail comes in handy when wearing a wallet chain with a snap hook, which often tears through the overlock normally found on the back of belt loops. On the second collaboration jean they implemented the detail on both front belt loops as some like to wear their wallet in the left back pocket.

Besides Iron Heart and Flat Head DC4 stocks brands like Dry Bones, R.J.B, Pure Blue Japan and Samurai.

When discussing his approach to washing, Daniel quickly comes clean about his position on the matter. “It’s like scientology today and everybody keeps telling you what to do. It’s really blown up. I don’t care about the “rules” – I have jeans that I haven’t washed for 7 or 8 years and I have jeans that I wash every month. But basically you won’t get those distinctive fadings if you wash your jeans too often,” he concludes. ”You will probably also hear people recommending you to put your jeans in the freezer to remove the smell, but it doesn’t really work. Yet, we’ve tried to send some of your dirty jeans to a special facility in southern Germany that blows the dirt out of the fabric with high pressure. That worked.”

Daniel collects flight jackets, army jackets, baseball tees, and Harley tees while Frank has a jeans collection of at least a couple hundred pairs, and even though he has a hard time picking out one perfect pair he is pretty proud of his deadstock pair of Lee Lady Riders from the 60s in mint condition with a $6-price tag and everything. Hopefully we’ll get a glimpse of them next time we visit the shop.

As something unique, DC4 now offers a special soaking service; let the guys at DC4 soak your newly bought the Japanese shrink-to-fit jeans before they hem them using their original 1940s Union Special 43200. That way you won’t have to ship the jeans back and forth for the hemming. They are also offering an indigo dyeing service and to top it off you can also get your very own customised leather patch put on your jeans.

Thursday, October 25, 2012

DECIPHER YOUR CLOTHES' CARE LABELS


A series of hieroglyphics on your jeans are always make you some trouble. The 'care instructions,' as they're referred to, don't do much instructing, so please see allow us to decode and then offer real world translations.


1. Stands for: Do not bleach
Translation: Pretty simple, really. Also, make sure your detergent's ingredients don't list "sodium hypochlorite," which is the chemical name for bleach.

2.Stands for: Machine wash
Translation: Toss it in the washer. The number of dots indicate the temperature. One for cold. Two for warm. Three for hot.

3.Stands for: Hand wash
Translation: Head to the sink and run some warm water (between 90 and 95 degrees). No Woolite? Shampoo will work. Don't scrub too hard. Not interested in manual labor? The washer's gentle cycle should suffice.

4.Stands for: Do not iron
Translation: Hang in the bathroom during a shower to release small wrinkles. Use a steamer to work out larger wrinkles. Or simply take to a dry cleaner to have pressed.

5.Stands for: Dry on low heat
Translation: This can be dried in the dryer. The number of dots indicate the temperature, so one dot means low heat. A line under this symbol means that it should be dried on the "permanent press" setting--a rule to follow even when it's not called for.

6.Stands for: Do not tumble dry
Translation: The best thing to do is lay a towel onto your bed, and flatten the damp garment onto the towel. Flip over a few hours later and it should be dry by bedtime.

7.Stands for: Dry Clean
Translation: Delicate fabrics like silk and some wools require dry cleaning. You can attempt washing by hands, but dry cleaning will help prolong the shape and quality of the garment.


*The system of dots indicating temperature range (one for low, two for medium, three for high), is the same for washing, drying or ironing.




A Great speech conference for who ever wants to set up your own brand.
Thanks to Parson design school.


LIVID JEANS "SPIRIT OF NORWAY"




A Norwegian jeans, Livid Jeans. A small artisan denim brand, created from a simple love & strong passion for denim & true craftsmanship. Striving to honor old traditions in making jeans, every product is made the old fashion way.


Jeans construction !


What is really make jeans so special? History, fabric, durability, details and etc. Jeans are made of cotton & indigo and cut in five pockets pants with twelve rivets, strong and contrast stitching, five to seven belt loops and a zip or button fly.

We have set out the basic construction of jeans to identify the functions of the different components of the generic 5-pocket jean. You may not find all these details on most jeans you can buy today, but nevertheless they’re all significant for the evolution of the jean.

1. Coin Pocket


2. Belt Loops


3. Atari or Whiskers


4. Bartack


5. Tate-Ochi or Slubs


6. Right Hand twill


7. Selvage





YKK ZIP


The YKK Group (YKKグループ Waikeikei Gurūpu?) known as one of the most famous zipper/zip manufacture in the world from Japan.

The initials YKK stand for Yoshida Kōgyō Kabushiki Kaisha (吉田工業株式会社?), Yoshida Manufacturing Corporation. More than 90% of all zippers in the world are made in over 206 YKK facilities in 68 countries around the world, with the largest factory in Georgia, USA which produces more than 7 million zippers per day. YKK claims to be the first zipper/zip company to promote environmental protection measures. YKK developed a line of "environmentally friendly zippers", following the company's philosophy "The Cycle of Goodness," which means that one prospers when one renders benefit to others.


Read full article here

HOW TO COLOR DENIM


Denim Trunk





Have you ever swim with your denim? If yes you must experienced the result of wet, stickiness of your pant with a very heavy weight during your fun time in water. I' m the one who experienced it!

Now there are a solution of a very cool Denim trunk "A denim that you can swim". This denim made of a very special hi-technology "A COMFORTABLE LIGHT WEIGHT DENIM WHICH NEVER ABSORB WATER". So now you can enjoy the look of grunge while you swim time.

How to properly clean jeans









LEGEND TALK!







This might be a little old video but it is still a great film that giving an important information of the history of denim & jeans.

This is a DENIM TALK with denim legends Elio Fiorucci, François Girbaud, Adriano Goldschmied and Luigi Martelli, hosted by Ray Cokes and Prof. Dr. Jo Groebel.

Elio Fiorucci is an Italian fashion label founded by Elio Fiorucci in 1967. The first shop exposed Milan to the styles of Swinging London and American classics such as the T-shirt and jeans.

Adriano Goldschmied hails from the Italian port of Trieste and launched his first denim line in 1970 in the ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo. Eight years later, he founded Diesel and would be instrumental in the development of successful European brands including Replay, Goldie and Rivet.

Watch Video here!